Why a full canvas custom suit matters

Suit construction is one of the key factors behind a truly great Custom suit. In the industry, there are three main construction methods: fused (also referred to as a floating chest piece), half-canvas, and full canvas (floating canvas). These methods determine how a custom suit holds its shape and achieves its structure.

Fused construction is the most common and cost-effective method. It uses a synthetic canvas that is glued directly to the jacket’s outer fabric. This technique is straightforward and requires minimal skill compared to a full canvas jacket, making it quicker and cheaper to produce. However, it comes with several disadvantages. Fused suits are often stiff and less breathable, leading to discomfort when worn. Additionally, they don’t shape to the body as well as a full canvas jacket. Over time - usually within 6 to 12 months - the glue can start to separate, causing the fabric to bubble. This typically limits the lifespan of a fused suit to around 6 to 18 months with regular use.

Half-canvas construction is a blend of fused and full canvas techniques. It’s widely used in custom suits because it strikes a balance between cost, ease of manufacturing, and improved quality over fused construction. Half-canvas jackets use a stitched horsehair canvas in the chest and lapels, providing better flexibility and durability compared to fused suits. Unlike glued components, these stitched areas offer improved longevity. That said, half-canvas suits don’t drape as naturally as full canvas versions and generally last around 1 to 3 years. Despite some tailors claiming that half-canvas suits are lighter and more breathable than full canvas, this isn’t true - it’s more about marketing than fact.

Full canvas construction represents the pinnacle of custom suiting. This method uses a pad-stitched horsehair canvas that is sewn directly to the outer fabric, giving the suit unmatched shape, structure, and longevity. It’s a labor-intensive process - roughly 65% more work than half-canvas and 120% more than fused suits - which accounts for the higher cost. Full canvas construction also requires skilled craftsmanship, limiting the number of factories that can produce it. At Casual Fitters, we use full canvas horsehair as our standard construction. We source premium canvassing from Italy and add an extra layer in the chest for enhanced shaping - a unique touch exclusive to our brand. We stand behind our work by offering free alterations (for select areas) and complimentary repairs for the life of the garment. Typically, one of our full canvas suits will last at least 5-10 years, depending on how often it’s worn, how well it’s cared for, and you fabric choice.